Tarantula Care Guide: Setup, Feeding & Handling

Tarantulas are fascinating, low-maintenance pets that have gained popularity among exotic animal enthusiasts worldwide. With over 900 known species, these arachnids range from docile and beginner-friendly to fast and defensive. This guide covers everything you need to know to keep your pet tarantula healthy and thriving.

Understanding Tarantula Temperament

Not all tarantulas behave the same way. Species temperament plays a major role in your experience as a keeper.

Docile species include the Mexican red knee (Brachypelma hamorii), curly hair (Tliltocatl albopilosus), and Chilean rose (Grammostola rosea). These species are slow-moving, rarely defensive, and ideal for beginners.

Defensive species like the Orange Baboon Tarantula (Pterinochilus murinus) or the Cobalt Blue (Cyriopagopus lividus) are fast, prone to threat postures, and not suitable for handling. These are best reserved for experienced keepers who appreciate a display-only pet.

Enclosure Setup

Your tarantula's enclosure depends on whether the species is terrestrial (ground-dwelling) or arboreal (tree-dwelling).

• Terrestrial species need a wider enclosure with 4 to 6 inches of substrate for burrowing. The floor space should be roughly 2 to 3 times the tarantula's leg span in both length and width.
• Arboreal species need a taller enclosure with climbing surfaces like cork bark. Height matters more than floor space for these species.

Substrate: Coconut fiber (coco coir) is the most popular choice. It holds humidity well and allows burrowing. Avoid cedar or pine shavings, which are toxic.

Water dish: Always provide a shallow water dish. Tarantulas drink regularly, and the dish also helps maintain humidity. Use a dish shallow enough to prevent drowning.

Temperature: Most pet tarantulas thrive at room temperature, between 70 and 80 degrees Fahrenheit. Avoid heat lamps, which can dry out the enclosure and stress your spider. A gentle heat mat on one side of the enclosure works if your room runs cold.

Humidity: Tropical species need 65 to 80 percent humidity, while desert species prefer 40 to 60 percent. Mist one side of the enclosure lightly and monitor with a hygrometer.

Feeding Schedule

Tarantulas are carnivores that eat live insects. The most common feeder insects are crickets, dubia roaches, and mealworms.

• Adults: Feed once or twice per week. Offer prey roughly the size of the tarantula's abdomen.
• Juveniles (slings): Feed every 2 to 3 days with appropriately sized prey like flightless fruit flies or pinhead crickets.
• Large species: Fully grown Goliath birdeaters and similar large tarantulas can occasionally eat pinky mice, though insects should remain the staple diet.

Always remove uneaten prey within 24 hours. A live cricket left in the enclosure can stress or even injure a molting tarantula.

Molting

Molting is the process by which tarantulas shed their exoskeleton to grow. It is one of the most critical periods in a tarantula's life.

Signs of pre-molt: Refusal to eat, darkening of the abdomen, reduced activity, and sometimes a bald spot on the abdomen (where urticating hairs have been kicked off). Pre-molt can last anywhere from a few days to several weeks.

During the molt: Do not disturb your tarantula. Remove any live prey from the enclosure. The spider will typically flip onto its back and slowly work its way out of the old exoskeleton. This process can take several hours.

After the molt: Wait at least a week before offering food. The new exoskeleton needs time to harden. The fangs are soft after molting, and the spider cannot eat safely until they firm up.

Urticating Hairs Warning

Most New World tarantulas (species from the Americas) possess urticating hairs on their abdomen. When threatened, they use their hind legs to flick these barbed hairs into the air.

These hairs can cause significant irritation to skin, eyes, and respiratory passages. Always wash your hands after handling a tarantula, and never hold one near your face. If hairs get into your eyes, flush with water immediately and seek medical attention if irritation persists.

Old World species (from Africa, Asia, and Australia) lack urticating hairs but compensate with more potent venom and a greater tendency to bite.

Daily and Weekly Care Routine

Health Indicators

A healthy tarantula has a plump, round abdomen and responds to stimuli. Watch for these warning signs:

• Shriveled abdomen: Dehydration. Ensure the water dish is full and mist the enclosure.
• Lethargy outside of pre-molt: Could indicate illness or poor husbandry conditions.
• Mites: Tiny moving dots on the tarantula or substrate. Clean the enclosure thoroughly and replace all substrate.
• Dyskinetic syndrome (DKS): Uncoordinated movement or twitching. Often fatal and linked to pesticide exposure from feeder insects. Source feeders from reputable suppliers.

Handling Tips

If you choose to handle your tarantula, follow these guidelines:

1. Only handle docile species that are known to tolerate it.
2. Sit on the floor or hold the tarantula over a bed to minimize fall risk.
3. Let the tarantula walk onto your hand rather than grabbing it.
4. Keep sessions short, around 5 to 10 minutes.
5. Never handle during or near a molt.
6. Wash your hands afterward to remove any urticating hairs.

Tarantulas are rewarding pets for those who appreciate observation over interaction. With proper setup and minimal maintenance, most species can live 10 to 30 years in captivity, making them a long-term companion for dedicated keepers.